![]() Therefore, place the anvil before you such that the forge is on the side of your non-dominant hand. If you're working on your knees, it's difficult to turn about safely with hot metal. If you are working on the ground as this guide suggests you may find that the anvil is better at about 90 degrees to the "front" of the forge. The idea being that when the metal is at the right temperature the smith simply turns 180 degrees and takes a step and is at the anvil ready to work wasting no time and effort to get there and into the work at hand. That is where as you're facing the forge the anvil is immediately behind you and a step or two back. Many prefer the anvil "in line" with the forge. To start we recommend one of two positions. And you may find that you need to move it to suit different kinds of work. Over time you will find a place for the anvil that ideally suits your work. If the ends of the "anvil" are rough cut you will want to lie it on the ground and use the longer face. This will give you a smaller work surface but one that is more than adequate for our purposes. This will give you a rectangular anvil with a face about 6" x 2-3" (15 cm x 5–8 cm).Īlternatively you can dig another hole a foot or two in depth, depending on the length of your "anvil" and set it in the hole upright and pack the dirt around it leaving about a foot exposed. This will be adequate for the first several exercises. ![]() If you are working with the guidelines of simplicity and have found a 6" square by 2-3' piece of mild steel or an equivalent, the set up is fairly easy: lay it on the ground about 6' or so from the fire pot.
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